Around the house

A metal hinge with a round cup that hides inside a cabinet or wardrobe door and lets it open and close.

A rod that pushes up and holds a lift-up cabinet door or a chair seat.

A small pin that plugs into the holes inside a cabinet to hold up a shelf.

A metal rail on the side or bottom of a drawer that lets it slide in and out smoothly.

A bar-shaped handle that mounts on a drawer or cabinet door with two screws.

A round furniture knob that mounts with a single screw.

A small part mounted inside a cabinet that holds the door shut with a magnet.

A device that pops a handleless cabinet door open when you press and let go. If the door sits halfway out, try adjusting the gap before you replace it.

A buffer mounted inside a cabinet so the door closes slowly instead of slamming. It only softens the closing impact and is not a safety device against pinched fingers.

A foot under furniture or a kitchen cabinet that you turn to set the height and level it.

A basket-shaped screen that sits in the kitchen sink drain and catches food scraps. Cleaning or replacing it only helps with smells caused by scraps left in the basket. It does not block sewer smells.

The corrugated hose that runs from the kitchen sink drain to the floor drain pipe.

A metal mesh that fits under the kitchen hood and traps greasy fumes. Wash it first, and replace it when it is damaged or won't come clean.

A small wheel hidden under a sliding window that lets it glide sideways.

A device with an arm, mounted at the top of a door, that makes an open door close slowly by itself.

The handle you grab and turn or push down to open an interior door.

A hinge with two leaves joined by a pin that hangs an interior or entry door on its frame. If the door sags because the screws came loose, tightening them may be all it needs.

Hardware that keeps a door from hitting the wall (bumper type) or holds it open (hold-open type). It mounts on the door, the floor or the wall.

The metal plate set into the door frame. The latch on the handle side catches in it to keep the door closed.

A small lens fitted through the front door so you can look outside from inside.

A safety latch that lets the front door open only a little. It comes as a swing bar or a chain.

A half-moon latch you turn to lock two sliding window panels where they meet. If the window rattles, the rollers or the gaps may be the cause instead.

The handle on a tilt and turn window. Which way you turn it picks between swinging the window open and tilting it for ventilation. If it just spins, a new handle can fix it when the handle or spindle joint is damaged, but the locking gear inside may also be at fault.

The barrel in a lock where the key goes in and turns. Swapping it for one with a different key combination changes the key.

Hardware for a sliding door that hangs from a track at the top. If a wheel comes off the track, stop using the door and get it fixed.

The mesh part of a window insect screen. If it tears, you can replace just the mesh.

A plastic plug you push into a drilled hole first so the screw grips tightly and doesn't pull out.

A paste for filling nail holes and cracks in a wall. Once it dries you sand it flat.

A glue you apply under a lifting wallpaper seam to stick it back down.

An L-shaped trim applied over a wall corner to strengthen the plaster or drywall edge and keep it from chipping. It is not the same as a soft corner guard for children.

A tape you put over drywall seams and cracks, then cover with joint compound to stop cracking. For big holes, use it together with a backing piece or patch.

A square hatch in the ceiling that opens so you can get to the pipes and wiring. In a fire-rated ceiling, the replacement must have the same fire rating.

The plastic plate that frames a wall outlet or switch. If the discoloration comes with heat, scorch marks or a smell, the cover is not the problem. Stop using it and have an electrician check it.

An extension outlet that lets you plug several devices into one wall outlet. Individual switches are not the same thing as overload protection.

A soft strip you stick along a door or window gap to keep cold air out.

A fuzzy strip fitted into the gaps of a sliding window frame to keep out drafts and dust.

A bubble sheet you stick on window glass to cut down on the cold. Condensation depends on indoor humidity and ventilation, so there's no promise it will go away.

A foam filler that expands and hardens after you spray it, filling gaps and holes. Regular foam should not be used as a fire-stop filler.

The core inside a faucet handle that turns the water on and off and mixes hot and cold.

A fitting under the drain that holds a little water so sewer smells can't come back up.

A paste you squeeze into gaps around a bathroom or sink. It sets like rubber and keeps water out.

The flexible hose that connects the shower head to the faucet.

The handheld head the shower water comes out of. A new head only fixes a weak spray when the head itself is clogged. The cause may also be your home's water pressure, the faucet or the hose.

A bar mounted upright on the wall so the shower head holder can slide up and down. If only the holder is broken, you can replace just the holder. It is not a grab bar to lean on.

An L-shaped valve on the wall under a sink or toilet that shuts off the water supply.

The part that refills the toilet tank and shuts off when it is full. A constant filling sound can also come from a leaking flapper, so check which one it is first.

The rubber stopper that opens and closes the drain hole at the bottom of the toilet tank.

The handle on the outside of the toilet tank that you push to flush.

The seat and lid set that sits on top of the toilet bowl.

The stopper assembly that opens and closes a bathroom sink drain. It comes in push-button, lever and other types. If water pools because the pipe is clogged, a new pop-up won't fix it.

A cover with holes that sits over the bathroom floor drain.

A thin white tape you wrap around pipe threads so the joint doesn't leak. Shower hose connections seal with a rubber washer, so check the washer first.

A flat rubber ring that sits inside a water hose connection to stop leaks.

A dedicated faucet that the washing machine's water supply hose connects to.

The hose that carries water from the washing machine to the drain. If you find a damaged hose or a leaking connection, the hose may be why the floor is wet. If the machine itself has to be opened up, call for service.

A bar mounted on the bathroom wall for hanging towels.

A holder mounted on the bathroom wall for a roll of toilet paper.

A stopper that plugs the bathtub drain so the tub can fill with water.

A fan in the bathroom ceiling that pulls out moisture and smells.

A long trim that runs along the bottom of the wall where it meets the floor.

A trim strip that covers the seam where the flooring changes, such as between a bedroom and the living room. Use T-molding for floors at the same height and a reducer where the heights differ. If the flooring is lifting, fix the cause first and then finish the seam.

A stick-on pad or slip-on cap for the bottom of chair and furniture legs. It cuts down on floor scratches and noise.

Crayons and fillers that fill dents and scratches in a wood floor in a matching color. A marker pen alone can't fill a deep gouge.

Thin square vinyl flooring that is laid over the floor. If a tile lifts because of moisture or poor adhesion, dry the subfloor and fix the adhesion first.