A screw for joining wood through pocket holes. It has a washer head or pan head that is flat underneath. If a screw pokes through, check the jig and depth settings first.
A flat metal plate screwed over the joint between two pieces of wood, for reinforcing spots that don't carry load. If something that bears weight, like a chair or a structural member, has broken, have it checked separately.
A nut set into wood so a bolt can be removed and tightened again many times. Depending on the product, you screw it in or press it in. A badly stripped hole may not be usable as it is.
A U-shaped metal bracket that hangs a deck or floor joist from the beam. A sagging joist needs its cause checked first, and new hardware alone may not fix it.
An adhesive for bonding wood to wood, usually a white water-based (PVA) product. For a chair joint, check for damage, clamp it together, and wait until the glue has fully cured before using the chair.
A paste for filling cracks and screw holes in wood, which you then sand smooth. It is not meant for structural repair or for making a stripped screw hole hold again.
A smooth board made of compressed wood fibers that takes paint well. Even moisture-resistant MDF is not waterproof, so where a panel has swollen, fix the leak or damp first.
Standard-size sawn lumber from spruce, pine and fir, sold in sizes such as 2x4. A platform that people will stand or sit on needs the member sizes, support spacing and joint loads checked.